How to Fix A Maytag Washer Making Noise During Spin Cycle

If your Maytag washer is making loud noises during its spin cycle, the most likely cause is a worn-out tub bearing. If the tub bearing is not responsible, one of the suspension components or the spider support arm (front-load washers only) is likely responsible for the noise issue. 

Unfortunately, replacing the tub bearing or spider support arm is a complicated and time-consuming repair that you may want to leave to a trained repair technician. However, checking and replacing suspension components is relatively easy.

Make sure to disconnect the power and water to your washer before performing any repairs. 

This guide applies to most Maytag washer models, including the following:

A101

A102

A102S

A103

A103S

A104

LAT9416AAE

MAH3000AWW

MAH4000AWW

MAH5500BWW

MAH8700AWW

MAV6200AWW

MAV7600AWW

MHWE200XW00

MVWC300VW1

MVWC415EW2

Check the drum

If you have a Maytag front-load washer, you can determine if the tub bearing is worn out, and causing the noise issue, by inspecting the drum. First, turn the drum and see how loose it is when it spins. If it is loose, it will vibrate more than usual and make a lot of noise- that indicates the tub bearing needs to be replaced.

Next, lift up and push down on the basket and see how secure it is. If the tub bearing is defective, the basket will be loose and won’t quickly return to its initial position.

Another symptom of a bad tub bearing is plastic shavings. These are created when the basket grates against the front of the washer.

If you have a Maytag top-load washer, it can be more difficult to determine if your tub-bearing has failed. In fact, not all Maytag top-load washers even have tub bearings. However, you can try and diagnose the issue by listening to where the noise is coming from. If the noise seems to come from the bottom-center of the washer, a worn-out tub bearing is most likely responsible.

How to replace the tub bearing

Mainly due to its hard-to-reach location, replacing a tub bearing is a difficult and time-consuming repair, so it may pay to have a trained technician replace it.

Accessing the tub bearing will depend on the type of Maytag washer that you have. 

With front-load washers, the tub bearing is located on the rear of the outer tub. However, typically, you will need to dismantle most of the washer, which will require your  removing the door, front panel, and rear access panel – then you’ll have to remove the drum from the washer.

With top-load washers, the tub bearing is mounted to the underside of the tub. Access to the bearing requires dismantling the washer, removing the tub, the stator, and the rotor.

If you need to replace the tub bearing, it is recommended that you go ahead and replace the tub seal as well. Replacement seals are usually included in replacement tub bearing kits.

Check and replace suspension components

Depending on the type and age of your washer, it will have various components responsible for the suspension of its tub or drum when the whole washer is in use. If any of these suspension components are defective, it will cause the washer to make a lot of noise.

Front-load Maytag washers have two suspension springs that support the drum from the top and shock absorbers that support the bottom of the drum.

Top-load Maytag washers usually have snubber rings or pads that support the bottom of the tub, as well as springs that secure the tub to the bottom of the washer (more common in older washers). Newer top-load Maytag washers usually have suspension rods down the sides of the cabinet that support the tub, and some may have suspension straps between the tub and the side of the washer cabinet.

Diagnosing an issue with suspension components is difficult without removing the top and front panels. However, you can try to listen to the noise the washer is making to determine if a specific suspension component has failed. A washer that vibrates uncontrollably suggests broken springs or suspension rods.

As noted above, accessing these components will depend on your type of washer. Usually, you’ll have to remove the top and front panels. Once you have removed the panels, it is relatively easy to diagnose and replace the defective parts.

Check and replace the spider support arm (front-load washers)

Front-load washers have a spider support arm that holds the inner tub in place. The spider support arm is easily identified by its three arms, which secure to the tub, and a shaft that connects with the drive pulley or motor. The spider support arm is located between the inner and outer tubs, and it’s visible from the inside of the drum on some models.

If the spider support arm is defective, you will likely hear a clicking noise as you spin the tub around, and the tub will also wobble. Like with a defective tub bearing, if there are plastic fragments inside the bottom of the door seal, that indicates a broken spider support arm is allowing the tub to grate against the font of the washer.

Checking and replacing the spider support arm is another time-consuming process that requires dismantling your washer. While the repair is not as complicated as removing the tub bearing, it may be best to get a trained technician to perform the replacement.

If you wish to repair it yourself, you will need to remove the rear access panel, disconnect the wiring harnesses, unthread the grounding screw and wiring harness bundle screws, and remove the rotor and stator.

Next, the front panel, detergent drawer, and door gasket need to be removed. The hoses connected to the tub, including the water level switch and air pressure hose, also need to be disconnected. 

The next step is to disconnect the heater wiring harness and the suspension components. Once these components have been disconnected, the tub needs to be taken out of the washer frame so that you can locate the spider support arm.

Finally, locate the spider support arm on the base of the tub and determine if it is broken. If it is indeed broken, replace the component with a new one.

Good luck!